20th September, 2014

This morning we awoke to probably our most beautiful sunrise for the entire holiday. This photo doesn't do it justice.

We packed up and headed south, stopping for a quick pit stop at 'The Ranges' before getting back in the car and driving to Port Augusta for a fuel stop. From there we headed towards Adelaide, detouring into the Clare Valley so Clare could have her photo taken next to the town sign. 

While we were there we had a bite for lunch. It is a really pretty town and with so many wineries around we promised ourselves to make the trip back up again without the kids so we can spend some time in the wineries.

Back in the car and we pressed on to Adelaide, refuelled again while it was cheap, hopefully last time for this trip, and then drive to Tintinara, 100 k's from the border with Vic. Gee whiz its bloody cold down here, 7.4 degrees at 8:25 pm, you have got to be kidding.

This will probably be our last post this trip, tomorrow we hope to get to Bannockburn, where we have left the dog, where we may or may not spend the night with my mate before heading home the next day.

We just clocked over 15000 k today, $5621 Fuel and $2807 Accomodation for 84 nights.

Thank you for reading these posts, I hope you have gained some insight into our trip.

Now what are you waiting for, get out and see this magnificent country of ours for yourself while you still can.

19th September, 2014

Just a travel day today, we packed up and left Alice Springs at 8:00 am and were pleased that there was a North Easterly blowing down the highway which gave us some assistance for a change. We stopped at Erldunda for a quick toilet stop before we crossed the border into South Australia, bringing a tear to our eyes. Then we stopped for lunch on the grass at Marla before making our way to Coober Pedy, where we re fuelled. 

These were our best fuel figures for the entire trip when towing the camper, 17.66 L/100 km. it is downhill from Alice Springs and the wind helped us a bit.

We continued on another two hours to a roadside rest stop at Mulga Well where we set up camp all by ourselves. Hopefully we will get to the other side of Adelaide tomorrow.

19th September, 2014

Just a travel day today, we packed up and left Alice Springs at 8:00 am and were pleased that there was a North Easterly blowing down the highway which gave us some assistance for a change. We stopped at Erldunda for a quick toilet stop before we crossed the border into South Australia, bringing a tear to our eyes. Then we stopped for lunch on the grass at Marla before making our way to Coober Pedy, where we re fuelled. 

These were our best fuel figures for the entire trip when towing the camper, 17.66 L/100 km. it is downhill from Alice Springs and the wind helped us a bit.

We continued on another two hours to a roadside rest stop at Mulga Well where we set up camp all by ourselves. Hopefully we will get to the other side of Adelaide tomorrow.

18th September, 2014

Well we awoke this morning to a beautiful clear desert morning at Renahans Bore. Last night as we went to bed a Road Train pulled in to the car park and left his motor running for about half an hour, apparently another vehicle stopped as well but I didn't hear it, too busy knocking back the zzzz's.

The graders were working just south of our overnight camp, so the rest of the Tanami was a bit rougher than the first 590 k, well at least until we hit the bitumen, 220 k from Alice. This part of the drive was a lot more scenic than the first half, as we climbed and passed some mountain ranges. We stopped at Alice at 1:30 and washed the car and camper before having lunch on Anzac Hill, while we made the decision to stay here overnight and then push for home over the next three days. 

Dave and Linda let us know that there vehicle needs a fuel pressure regulator or similar and the NRMA are going to have them towed to Kununurra to have it fixed on Monday, hopefully it doesn't sting them too much.

Won't be much to report (hopefully) over the next few days as we push hard for home on the bitumen but I will continue to post until we make it home.

17th September, 2014

We packed up this morning and said our sad farewells to Dave and Linda at the Halls Creek Caravan Park. We really enjoyed their company and were hoping to share the Tanami experience with them. Hopefully the car is easily fixed and doesn't cost them the world and we catch up with them again some time in the future.

So we retraced the 240 odd k's from the last two days and continued on along the Tanami. Our first stop was the border of WA/NT for a lunch stop and to wind the clocks forward an hour and a half, effectively losing that as travel time.

As we got out of the car I noticed that the trailer end of the Anderson Plug had disconnected itself, probably 200 k ago judging by the damage and all that was left of it was exposed wires. This meant the batteries in the camper weren't being powered and that when we stopped overnight the fridge wouldn't have any power unless we got it out of the car and put it at the back of the camper. Out came the wire crimpers, an old Anderson Plug that I had replaced in Kununnura after the last one fell out and the soldering iron. I disconnected the batteries so I could cut and strip back the wires but had to reconnect the battery wires so that I could power up the soldering iron using the invertor. This posed a new problem as every time the soldering iron touched the positive wires it would spark. Anyway all fixed and I wrapped some electrical tape around it to make sure it didn't fall out again.

Next and last stop for the day was Renahans Bore where we are camped off the side of the Tanami  by ourselves. Where are Dave and Linda?

16th September, 2014

This morning started easily enough with a quick breakfast before we did the short walk into the Wolfe Creek Meteorite Crater. It is amazing to think that all those years ago this huge object slammed into the earth and created this bowl. We walked up to the lookout and then down into the centre of the crater. Right in the middle of the bowl there is a circle of trees growing, almost like they were planted there.

Our friends Dave and Linda headed off for Alice Springs before us and we thought we would catch up with them at Billiluna, which is actually where the Canning Stock Route begins or finishes, depending on your route. 

We drove into this Aboriginal Community and got lost amongst the houses straight away. A young fella in a smashed up old Commodore gave me directions to the servo, which I followed, leading me to Dave and Linda. I put 50 litres of Opal in at 2.60 per litre (ouch) and we set off. Dave and Linda had a bit of a head start but after 30 or so k we found them stopped on the side of the road, same problem as yesterday. We tried the same procedure and it worked for another 20 k or so before they decided to turn around and head back to Halls Creek which was considerably less than the alternative, Alice Springs. 

We didn't want to leave them out there by themselves so we turned around and followed them back to Halls Creek. The tow truck from Billiluna (140 k) was going to cost $5500. It took us about 5 hours to drive the 240 k back to Halls Creek where they have put us up at the van park, brought us some grog and tried to pay for our petrol. They have been very generous considering the situation they find themselves in, they are beautiful people and we wish them the best for the rest of their trip home. Tomorrow we will have another crack at the Tanami.

15th September, 2014

Today was a bit of a nothing day really, we awoke to our last day at the Bungle Bungle, packed up the camper, drove to Halls Creek, fuelled up and then continued on to Wolf Creek Crater. 

We were travelling with Dave and Linda from Sydney and there were a few anxious moments when 90 k along the Tanami Daves warning light for water in the diesel came on and the Nissan stopped. He ended up draining the water from the fuel filter, a couple of times, before he could get it going again. Then he drove about 100 metres and she stopped again. A bit more priming and he was all good to get to Wolf Creek.

The sunset was beautiful out here tonight, as was our Lamb Roast.

14th September, 2014

Bright and early start to this morning to try and beat the heat again, 5:15 rise and shine, well for me anyway. We had breakfast and were on the trail by 7:00. This mornings walk took us along the Piccaninny Creek to Whipsnake Gorge with stop offs at Piccaninny Lookout and The Window.

When you walk you actually walk inside the creek, there is obviously no water left in it at this time of the year. You walk on sand, pebbles, small rocks and slabs of rock. The amount of erosion in the slabs of rock shows just how hard and fast the water must flow through here in the wet. Being out so early in the morning allowed us to see the Bungle Bungle in all it's glory (we could have been out earlier really), the sunlight is not as harsh, allowing contrasts in the rocks and trees and shadows to show up and still be visible. Not sure my photos will actually reflect that.

The Piccaninny Lookout allowed views across plains toward more of the Bungle Bungle and then back up the valley from where you had just walked.

The Window was, from our perspective, a non event. It was a piece of the Bungle Bungle with a hole in the middle of it, giving it the appearance of a window, if you were tall enough to look through it, maybe 9 foot tall.

Whipsnake Gorge was a magnificent deep gorge, you follow another creek bed up between two cliffs until you reach the end, where you are basically encompassed by the orange/red coloured stone of the Bungle Bungle. There were lots of dead Cane Toads in there and a couple of dried up water holes. In a way it was a smaller, less enclosed version of Cathedral Gorge.

The walk back retraced our steps to the car park, minus the lookout and the window.

When we started our walk it was 21 degrees on the cars gauge, we covered about 11 kilometres and when we got back it was 34 degrees at 10:00, good weight loss program.

Tomorrow we head south to Wolfe Creek Crater and then along the Tanami back to Alice Springs and then home by Friday week, the 26th of September, ready to start work on Monday the 28th, hooray.

Couple of stats before we head home.

Kilometres travelled - 11232

Average - 144 km per day

Average L/100 km - 19.87

Total Fuel Cost - $4179.69 or $53.59 per day

Average Price per Litre - $1.846 - Premium whenever we could get it

2265 Litres

Other expenditure - $9920 at $125.57 per day

Total nights - 77

13th September, 2014

Well after a very hot night, about 25 degrees, we awoke bright and early because all the windows in the tent were open and letting the sunlight in at 5:00 am. After breakfast we headed out to the Picanniny Car Park. It was a spectacular drive to the car park, with the Bungle Bungle domes appearing for the first time. We stopped to take a number of photographs along the way before coming to a stop at the end of the road. 

We walked the 'Domes' and 'Cathedral Gorge' and were amazed by new scenery at every turn. When we got to Cathedral Gorge there were a number of other people there but they slowly drifted off. When there were about half a dozen people left I convinced Alyssa to sing the song  'Somewhere over the Rainbow.' The acoustics in the gorge are fantastic, it's like a natural amphitheatre. You may remember the gorge from the Qantas ad in which the Australian Childrens Choir were singing 'Still call Australia home.' At the end the people that were left in the gorge gave her a round of applause. Later in the day we saw them again and they told her she would be famous, it must have sounded good. In the end we were the only people there and Alyssa sang it again, without an audience.

Anyway after that walk we headed back to camp for a quick snack before driving up to Echidna Chasm. The walk into the Chasm starts on a rocky creek bed before entering a narrow gorge. The gorge is 180 metres tall and made up of conglomerate, it slowly narrows and at one point it is about 800mm wide at the top. Obviously it doesn't let a whole lot if light into it, so good photos were pretty hard to achieve. Again we managed to have the chasm all to ourselves for 5 minutes or so, we are very lucky but it is late in the season. We visited a few lookouts on the way back to camp. 

Once back at camp we had cold showers to cool off in the stifling heat. 

At sunset we went up to a sunset viewing area with Dave and Linda and enjoyed a beverage or two with some snacks. The pictures aren't very good, there was too much foreground. 

12th September, 2014

Well our earliest pack up day for the trip today, finally getting it together, we were away by 7:30. On the way out of the park we saw Bob cutting his Boab nuts out of a Boab tree with a big stick with a knife attached to the end.

We stopped at Halls Creek for a quick lunch at the Bakery and then continued on to the Bungle Bungle turn off. After airing down we continued on along the very scenic 52 kilometre drive, which reminded Clare and I of the drive into the Bunyeroo Valley in the Flindes Ranges.

After setting up camp in the 38 degree heat we just sat around trying to keep cool, the walks can wait until tomorrow and Sunday. Dave and Linda came over for a pre dinner drink this afternoon, I think we will be sharing each other's company back down and across the Tanami, it would be nice to have a little reassurance out there.

11th September, 2014

This morning we were up bright and early, aware of the fact that it was going to be 40 degrees and we wanted to do a 3 k walk at Geike Gorge. We didn't get away as early as Clare would have liked but we left camp at around 7:30. On the way to the start of the walk we came across two Brolgas crossing the road. Clare was very excited, she had wanted to see them all trip and now she had. They are a very big stalk like bird and when they flew off their wing span was huge.

We started walking at about 8:00. The walk follows the western side of the gorge, sticking closely to the Devonian Reef and then ends when the river meets that side of the gorge. We then walked back along the sand, hugging the river bank. The colours in the gorge are amazing and they contrast the deep green of the water beautifully. You can go on a boat cruise but our funds have really dried up so the walk had to suffice. We did manage to see a freshwater croc and plenty of fish in the water.

On the way back through town we stopped off at the Old Fitzroy Inn. As we were walking in to have a look at the Art Gallery that now forms part of the Inn, we were welcomed by an old Aboriginal Fella, Bob. He was sitting on a chair under a big Boab tree and showed us a Boab nut he had just carved/ etched a drawing into. He was using a butter knife with a bit of clear tape wrapped around the handle, he tells us he sharpens it on the concrete, to etch his drawings into the nuts. We purchased one off him which he had etched a couple of Kangaroos, a Goanna and a Turtle into, for $25 and we also asked if we could take his photo so we could remember who had carved it, he obliged. In the Art Gallery the same thing was $40, Bob was onto something sitting there. While we were there we saw three Brolgas drinking in a puddle in the Fitzroy River.

From there we headed to the Dr Sawfish Glass Blowing Factory. We met Dr. Sawfish and Trent wanted to buy one of his hand crafted marbles. Trent had been trying to decide which one to get and had two he would have liked. He choose one and bugger me dead if the bloke didn't throw him in the other one he liked and few stickers for nothing extra. Not sure how Trent keeps getting freebies but he keeps winning.

Then we went back to camp and swam on and off all afternoon before heading up to the pub for another drink with a couple we have met from Sydney, Dave and Linda. The kids amused themselves for the hour at the campsite. 

10th September, 2014

Not a lot to report today for those of you following our trip. We left Broome just before 8:30 and drove to Fitzroy Crossing. Apart from some bridges over a few rivers, Boab trees and some wandering stock, there wasn't much to see, not even any photos.

When we got to camp at the Fitzroy River Lodge it was a balmy 38 degrees, a very dry heat as opposed to the humidity of Broome. We found a piece of shade, set up, went for a swim in the pool and then Clare and I went up to the bar for a drink. All the way out here they have Little Creatures Pale Ale on tap, how could I resist, Clare had a cocktail.

9th September, 2014

 This morning Clare, Trent and I made the short walk over to Cable Beach to have a swim, while Alyssa stayed behind to do some homework. When we got there we noted on the Surf Life Saving Club sign it said there were Jellies in the water that produce a mild sting. We thought we would risk it anyway and went for a swim.  It was high tide and the water was pretty rough by Cable Beach standards. Trent and I both got stung, it was a bit like being stung by a March Fly, only the sting continues a bit longer. The jellyfish were Tomatoe Jellies. 

We didn't stay too long and headed back to the van park for a swim in the pool - hard to take, I know. 

After our swim we went and stocked up in groceries for the next 10 days or so.

Then we headed off to Town Beach where they had markets on before the Stairway to the Moon.

It was amazing to see how many people turned up to watch the moon rise and shine it's light over the sand flats, producing the stairway. It was as if half of Broome was there, they really make something big of it. No photos sorry, the iPhone wasn't up to it. You will just have to take my word for it that it was worth staying the extra nights in Broome to see it.

8th September, 2014

This morning we decided to go and try our luck fishing at the Broome Jetty again, this time we were armed with some bait instead of lures and poppers. I had a bite pretty quickly but it didn't stick and then nothing for the next hour or so, when I needed to go to the toilet, so I left Clare in charge of my fishing rod. No sooner had I got to the end of the jetty, did Clare get a big hook up. She tried to pull it up and it bit off my 50 pound trace. From wat they described it was probably a big Trevally or a Queenie. Nothing else for the rest of our time there but only one other bloke caught a fish.

We returned for lunch and a swim in the pool and then at low tide headed down to Gathumen Point to find the dinosaur footprints. It has to be a very low tide and this was the first time we could view them while we have been in Broome. Last time (2003) there was one other family there, this time it was busier than a Bourke Street, Myer window viewing on Christmas Eve. No problems finding them with all those people there. 

Then we drove home the back way along the beach road back to the Port.

7th September, 2014

Today started with 4 loads of washing and we still have more to go tomorrow. The sand, dust and dew up at Middle Lagoon left us and our clothing feeling in need of a good clean. 

Then we drove into town to check out the Sunday Market. It wasn't very big, there were only a few merchandise stalls and just as many food stalls. From there it was off to do some grocery shopping before heading to Maccas for a $1 Cheeseburger which I was allowed to have as it was Fathers Day.

Back to the van park for a swim in the resort pool before we made our way into town for the Shinju Festival Street Parade. We lined up on the street and watched the floats, bikes, Chinese dragon, fire trucks and vintage cars come down the street and head into the centre of town. The streets were lined with punters, the people on the floats were throwing handfuls of lollies at the kids and then the fire trucks started squirting water all over the kids. It was great to be there to see it all unfold, the towns people really got into it and all the kids had a ball. We followed the parade down to the oval where they all congregated and had a close up look, while the band kicked into gear. 

Then we stopped at Cable Beach to watch another beautiful Broome sunset.

6th September, 2014

Today with sorrow in our hearts we packed up at Middle Lagoon and headed back down the Cape Leveque Road to Broome. I suppose there are plenty of worse locations we could have been going back too, like, Drouin for instance.

We have set up back in the Cable Beach Caravan Park, as that's the one we know and love. We are staying here for another four nights  so that we can see the Stairway to the Moon on the 9th. Over the next few days there is a Shinju Matsuri Festival on in town, with float parades and a Mardi Gras. It celebrates community and culture and showcases what Broome has to offer, so that will give us plenty to do.

From here we will be heading to Fitzroy Gorge and then in to the Bungle Bungles, before heading south to Wolfe Creek Crater and then home via the Tanami Track to Alice Springs. From there we will be high tailing it back to sunny Drouin.

5th September, 2014

Today we went snorkelling at Middle Lagoon Beach and saw heaps of fish, heres an example of what we saw. Clare baked some bread in the Weber before lunch and then after lunch we went back to the rock pools. We also did some fishing in the creek and caught about 10 bream (undersized) a rock cod and a few toads.

Here some photos of the sunset from the ridge at Middle Lagoon, which show the way the colours change as the sun dips into the Indian Ocean.

This evening Trent and Alyssa played 'Tiggy' with some of the local children and other kids that were camping here. When they had finished Trent went down to the beach with the local children and watched them try and spear Ghost Crabs and fish in the shallows.

4th September, 2014

This morning after an extremely dewy night, we headed off nice and early to the tip of Cape Leveque. Our first stop was One Arm Point where we visited the Ardiyooloon Community and their Trochus Hatchery. The Trochus is a shell fish that contains mother of pearl and they are spawned in tanks before being placed back on the reef to continue growing. The shell is shipped overseas and the meat is considered a delicacy in some overseas countries. There was a touch tank their and Trent had a hold  of a pencil urchin.

The views from up here a Ross towards Sunday Island are really something to behold.

From there we headed back to Kooljiman where we enjoyed a coffee at the Cafe before going swimming and snorkelling on the beach on the eastern side of the tip and then fishing on the western side of the tip. There were some beautifully positioned beach shelters to camp at on the eastern side of the tip, at $75 per double, unpowered. Location, location, location.